A form of vitamin E that works as an antioxidant. Though chemically speaking, it is alcohol (as in, it has an -OH group in its molecule), its properties are totally different from the properties of low molecular weight or drying alcohols such as denat. allowed 10% concentration) and it isnot photostable (looses 10% of its SPF protection in 45 mins) so it alwayshas to be combined with other sunscreens for properprotection. It often comes to the formula as part of an emulsifier, thickener trio (with Polyacrylamide and Laureth-7). Looking at the research, we were surprised to find how versatile Caffeine is. Other than that, citrus peelalso contains the problematic compoundcalledfuranocoumarinthat makes themmildly phototoxic. It's also touted as a volatile (evaporates from the skin rather than absorbs into it) silicone alternative, especially to replace Cyclomethiconemixes.
It is also soothing and rich in antioxidants. Protein fragments, aka peptides and growth factors derived from milk (whey). Shea butter that's considered to be a magic moisturizer and emollient. The famous Avobenzone. Its not something new: it was introduced around 1950 and today it can be used up to 1% worldwide. The unfancy name for it is lye. It gives very good protection acrossthe whole UVA range (310-400 nmthat is both UVA1 and UVA2) with a peak protection at 360 nm. It can be found in many plant oils, e.g. Both has soothing properties, but the German one contains more anti-inflammatory actives (like chamazulene). The problem is that you want sunscreens on the top of your skin and not in your bloodstream, so for BP-3 this is a problem. It's a highly stable but weak UVB absorber, that's often used as a photostabilizer in non-sunscreen proudcts. As cosmetic chemist kindofstephenwrites on reddit "sodium hyaluronate disassociates into hyaluronic acid molecule and a sodium atom in solution". Thefragrant essential oil coming from the flowers of Rose Geranium. The hard thing seems to be eating enough omega-3-s, more specificallyeating a healthy ratio of omega-6 to omega-3, but that is a topic for a what-is-good-to-eat-site and not for us. We have found some recent and promising research to back this up. Roman Chamomile - thanks to its phenolic compound had some nice soothing and skin toning properties. An extremely common multitasker ingredient that gives your skin a nice soft feel (emollient) and gives body to creams and lotions. First, it is stable (if pH < 5), easy to formulate and a joy to work with for a cosmetic chemist. There is also some research showing that citric acid with regular use (think three monthsand 20% concentration) can help sun-damaged skin, increase skin thickness and some nice hydrating things called glycosaminoglycans in the skin. Its often used together with ethylhexylglycerin as it nicely improves the preservative activity of phenoxyethanol. Hexylene Glycol is also part a preservative blend namedLexgard HPO, where it helps the effectiveness of current IT-preservative, phenoxyethanol. It also occurs naturally in our body and is used as a food additive. Contains fragrant components that give it a nice sweet smell. It has a smooth spreadability and touch, and itgives a substantive film to protect and moisturize the skin. If the product is too runny, a little xanthan gum will make it more gel-like. We are massive vitamin C fans and have written about it inexcruciating detail. A so-calledfatty (the good, non-drying kind of)alcohol that does all kinds of things in a skincare product: it makes your skin feel smooth and nice (emollient), helps to thicken up products and also helps water and oil to blend (emulsifier). The basis for this claim is that it targets the same wrinkle forming mechanism (wrinkles caused by facial muscle movement) as Botox, but the way it works is very different. A must-have ultra-emollient treatment for fresher, smoother and firmer-looking skin that contains broad-spectrum SPF 25 protection, too. There are plenty of better options for sun protection today, but it is considered "safe as used" (and sunscreens are pretty well regulated)and it is available worldwide (can be used up to 10% inthe EU and up to 7.5% in the US).
Knowing this, it will not come as a surprise that Linoleic acid has a central rolein the structure and function of stratum corneum permeability, aka healthy skin barrier. It has great spreadability, a good slip, and a silky skin feel. Citric acid comes from citrus fruits and is an AHA. As cosmetic chemistColins writes it, "its safety really is beyond any doubt". is drying. It's probably the most hyped up natural butter in skincare today. A handy multi-tasking ingredient that gives the skin a nice, soft feel and also boosts the effectiveness of other preservatives. In-vivo (made on real people) tests showed that using 10% Argireline solution around the eyes for 15 days decreased wrinkles depth by 17%. A common fragrance ingredient with a nice rose-like smell. It's a popular duo. Good old water, aka H2O. It was already used by ancient Egyptians to help oil and fat magically turn into something else. Chemically speaking, it comes from the attachment of sorbitan (a dehydrated sorbitol (sugar) molecule) with the fatty. It isnot very stable either, when exposed to sunlight, it kind of breaks down andloses itseffectiveness(not instantly, but over time - it loses 10% of its SPF protection ability within 35 mins). Pretty much the current IT-preservative. It autoxidizes on air exposure and counts as a common skin sensitizer. If you wanna become a real HA-and-the-skin expert you can read way more about the topic at hyaluronic acid(including penetration-questions, differences between high and low molecular weight versions and a bunch of references to scientific literature). A popular, vegetable-derived oil-loving emulsifier that helps water to mix with oil. At the same time, it also boosts the effectiveness of other preservatives, such as the nowadays super commonly used phenoxyethanol. lemon, orange, lime or lemongrass. It is not photostable so has to be combined with ingredients that help to stabilize it. It is also an essential fatty acid meaning our body cannot synthesizeit and has to take it from food. Unlike many other chemical sunscreens, it ishighly stable but its UV absorbing abilities are weakso it alwayshas to be combined with other sunscreen agents for proper protection. The most common skincare ingredient of all. Regarding Homosalate's safety profile, we do not have the best news.
Oxidizedlimonene cancause allergic contact dermatitis and counts asa frequent skin sensitizer. There is no known anti-aging or positive skin benefits of the ingredient. It is claimed to boostthe production of important extracellular matrix components(the gooey stuff between the skin cells) such as hyaluronic acid, collagenI and fibronectin. BTW, lye is not something new. Other than having a good safety profile and being quite gentle to the skin it has some other advantages too. First, its molecules are small (228 Da) and very lipophilic (oil loving) and these properties result in very goodabsorption. Since the 1980's, EPO is a well-known food supplement and there are quite a lot of studies examining what happens if you take it orally. A stable, oil-soluble form of Vitamin C, that might have (in-vitro results) all the magic abilities of pure vitamin C (antioxidant, collagen booster, skin brightener). But here again, the evidence that it actually makes a measurable, let alone visible, improvement on actualhuman beings is limited (we could find only some animal skin studies or caffeine being combined with other actives). Regarding safety, there are also someconcerns around Octinoxate. What seems to be a true difference, though, is that the salt form is more stable, easier to formulate andcheaper so it pops up more often on the ingredient lists. Its part of 200 natural oils including lavender, ylang-ylang, bergamot, jasmine, geranium and it can be found in 90-95% of prestige perfumes on the market. Argireline - famous peptide that's often referred to as "Botox in a jar". Its one of the EU 26 fragrances that has to be labelled separately (and cannot be simply included in the term fragrance/perfume on the label) because of allergen potential. In general, the main component of citrus peel oils islimonene(86-95% for grapefruit peel), a super common fragrant ingredient thatmakes everything smell nice(but counts as a frequent skin sensitizer). Bobbi Brown Extra Repair Moisturizing Balm SPF 25. Geraniol is a common fragrance ingredient. A 2017 study compared a 0.2% caffeine liquid with a 5%Minoxidil (an FDA approved active to treat baldness) solution and found that "a caffeine-based topical liquid should be considered as not inferior to minoxidil 5% solution in men with androgenetic alopecia", or English translation means that the caffeine liquid was pretty much as good as the FDA-approvedMinoxidil stuff. Bottom line: a really promising, but not well-proven vitamin C derivative that can be worth a try especially if you like experimenting (but if you likethe tried and true, pure vitamin Cwill be your best bet). It's a film-forming and thickening polymer (a large molecule composed of many repeated subunits) that comes to the formula usually as part of an emulsifier, thickener trio (with C13-14 Isoparaffin and Laureth-7, trade named Sepigel 305). Not bad! Hello, our favorite molecule that helps us wake up in the morning and then keeps us going through the day. Theessential oil comingfrom the rind of the grapefruit. It's one of the important lipids that can be found naturally in the outer layer of the skin. It can be found in nature - in green tea - but the version used in cosmetics is synthetic. A double-blind study using a 2.5% LA gel for 4 weeks found a 25% reduction in the size ofmicrocomedones,the tiny blocked pores that can later lead to acne. A type fo sugar, usually refined from cane or beet sugar. LA is not only important for dry, barrier damaged skin types but also for acne-prone skin. Regarding safety, BP-3 is somewhatcontroversial. Together with ceramides and fatty acids, they play a vital role in having a healthy skin barrier and keeping the skin hydrated. In its wax-form, it is still well, alive and pretty popular. It comes from the seeds of African Shea or KariteTreesand used as a magic moisturizer and emollient. As far as skincare goes, sodium hyaluronate and hyaluronic acid are pretty much the same and the two names are used interchangeably. Do not panic, these studies were not conducted on real humans under real world conditions. Used alone, it can make the formula sticky and it is a good team player so it is usually combined with other thickeners and so-calledrheology modifiers (helper ingredients that adjust the flow and thus the feel of the formula). A thick, paste-like emollient ester that is touted as a vegetable-derived lanolin alternative. Its a common fragrance ingredient that smells like lemon and has a bittersweet taste.
It does so by neutralizing the metal ions in the formula (that usually get into there from water) that would otherwise cause some not so nice changes. One more thing: the water used in cosmetics is purified and deionized (it means that almost all of the mineral ions inside it is removed). It contains less anti-inflammatory actives than the German Chamomile. :) You are almost done: please check your mailbox to confirm your email! Best to avoid if you have sensitive skin. A Spanish University also did some research and found thatArgireline increased the level of skin moisturization and decreased both the depth and width of wrinkles "significantly". So now, you know that Vitamin C is great and all, but it's really unstable and gives cosmetics companies many headaches. It is a so-called polyunsaturated fatty acid meaning it has more than one (in this case two) double bonds and a somewhat kinky structure that makes LA and LA-rich oils a thin liquid. The authors theorized that the 10% AA is released slowly from the silicon delivery system and probably stays in the upper layer of the skin to give antioxidant benefits, while ATIP penetrates more rapidly and deeply and gives some wrinkle-reducing benefits. In vitro (made in the lab not on real people) and animal studies have shown that it may produce hormonal (estrogen-like) effects. A commonwater-loving surfactant and emulsifierthat helps to keep water and oil mixed nicelytogether. HA is famous for its crazy water holding capacity as it can bind up to 1000 times its own weight in water. There are two primary types of Chamomile, the German and the Roman. It's one of the most commonly used thickeners and emulsion stabilizers. Even though some of its effects are more hyped up than backed up, it is still a nice tohave on many ingredient lists. But according to a comparative study done in 1995, citric acid has less skin improving magic properties than glycolic or lactic acid. Its safe and gentle, but even more importantly, its not a feared-by-everyone-mostly-without-scientific-reason paraben. It's a very rich source of linoleic acid (66-76%), and also contains thesoothing and healing superstar fatty acid, gamma-linolenic acid (aka GLA, 7-12%) (Btw, the richest known source of GLA is the borage oil, but evening primrose still counts as a very good source of it). If these magic three letters dont tell you anything, click here and read our detailed description on glycolic acid, the most famous AHA. It is usually used as a helper ingredient to adjust the pH of the formula. Once in the skin, it has nice antioxidant properties, meaning that it reduces the formation of evil free radicals and it mighteven be useful in preventing UV-induced skin cancers. The theory is that it can inhibitthe activity of the 5--reductase enzyme that plays an important role in hair lossand allows a renewed growth phase of the hair.
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