Just please dont. I think there used to be more drunks on the job and on drugs too at one time issues also. Second is the Morse Taper (usually a #2 on models with a 1/2 or 5/8 capacity chuck). maybe the chuck, being held on by nothing more then a Jacobs taper? I wasnt saying that everybody should just go blow $20K on a milling machine and do it right. Neither were really advertised. FINALLY, an constructive alternative, instead of a useless dont do this comment. That will most likely be one of the Jacobs Taper sizes, without a retainer screw up inside the chuck. Nobody has learned anything from these comments you are leaving, and the idea that the post should have an addendum about how you personally corrected their ignorance would be funny if it wasnt so incredibly narcissistic. Ditch the hyperbole, and give me the benefit of your actual experience. It is cool how you can use a drill press as a small mill. Tell us what we need to change about our drill presss to make them safe for these very interesting uses. Got a cross slide vice that needed some correctionsfor as much as one is able to make chips with such a setup, CHATTER will be your main enemy. So you should conclude that just the picture shown in the authors article caused me to cringe. The picture on that item (lower on the page) indicates it was designed to fit a Dremel style tool mounted in a drill press fixture. The KF12 isnt even a really powerful mill. You are not making sense. Same goes with emotional pervs or cheating issues. vinito64: oh, so now you play the Ive got way more experience than you card. It just has to have something to stop whatever dropping off when turning without having a spanner or tool applied to it to loosen it. We dont suggest doing anything too heavy, but if you need to turn down something soft like a piece of plastic or wood to a certain diameter, it can do in a pinch. I see. /me looks up at the safety comments I am SOOOO much in trouble here. Stop worrying about those bearings that cant withstand lateral forces. The run-out on this video from blown bearings is cringe worthy, and one could buy 2 mills with the number of bits he probably broke already. Maybe other people would be willing to take that gamble (to each their own), but speaking for myself I would not. HHhmmm yes, a router head would be more suitable for harder materials. On top of that, a drill chuck is designed to hold a wide range of bit sizes and the way it does that is collapse in on the tool with basically a pointed V on each of 3 jaws. The bearings arent designed for lateral forces. The quest to do machining without actually having a machine shop is certainly not new to Hackaday. Now, in regards to stories I havent directly witnessed the effects from other than missing limbs there is the missing fingers from screw machines, steel rolls and rollers and presses (I think Ive met people though am not in detail recalling who at the moment) and holes from high current high voltage not putting their one hand in their back pocket. as long as the collar is snugged. Dont get me wrong, I like using things in creative and novel ways. Cheaper drill presses may omit this and have the Jacobs Taper directly machined directly onto the end of the spindle instead of using the MT to JT arbor. Side loads will pop the chuck off the tapered shaft. Ive not directly witnessed events, nor am I acting like I watch Faces of Death or Snuff videos still there are cases if you search the internet for strange events that have killed or maimed people. With a rheostat or other voltage reducing device, you decrease the speed, but the torque does not increase to make up for it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gXvaZImOTbc. HaD comments never cease to amaze. jafinch78: aside from my, that escalated quickly, yes, you can use a rheostat (or variac, or whatever) to slow down a router motor, but no, you really wouldnt want to do that. The sentence While they are typically much lighter-duty than a drill press should read While they are typically much lighter-duty IN a drill press, Thats why your a machinist and not an author ;-), Hah! I can work next to my manual mill all day at 1000rpm. Milling and miling capable machines either have a drawbar of some description to pull the taper tooling into the socket, from above or they have *something* that wont come loose on the end of the quill (qc30 for example has a 1/4 turn capable only locking ring that grips the flange on the qc30 tooling pulling into the socket). Same is true for trying lathe operations in a drill press. I OBVIOUSLY was saying that once you mangle a tendon or few in hands or arms (easy to do) or lose an eye, then milling on the cheap with a Morse taper spindle becomes a regret rather than the clever idea you thought it was. This would give you the table and up/down motion but bypass the dangerous part of the drill press. $400 more you can get a working head. Even if not the exposure during the working environment life cycle causation idiots who dont want to pay out pensions and live off the investors capital interest will mass murder to keep the money they illegal stole. It will ruin the bearings, Or cause the chuck to fly off and give your face some unintentional cosmetic surgery. Not super simple, but could be done and while not totally eliminating danger, reduces it by a magnitude at least. I made some neat stuff with it. It must weigh 150 pounds. Dont do it dont try it. These can handle a lot of lateral, within the limits of a small, likely soft spindle shaft and low rigidity for the quill. IF you take a $50 harbor freight drill press and try itnot sure you will have much success..they can barely drill a hole. More not wise or not logical issues. Nothing to fly out under side loads, and as for bearings, those easy enough to replace. It might work for some experimenting at least. Thats not a super-easy thing to execute well either, but it could be done inexpensively. Do not do this unless you plan for ruined work and flying two pound chucks hitting you in the face. Also, Ive found an old Bridgeport mills on ebay go for as low as $1,000. Solid Morse Taper tooling has a flat tang on the end. I recently found three videos I thought were pretty good and can use some improvements also for milling steel with a drill press converted to a mill. They use radial figuring that the allowable axial load wont be exceeded. This is HACK-a-day is it not?!? natan.tourne liked LUMOS: Smart Lamp for Better Sleep. Thats a real PITA when you have to switch between milling and drilling, especially with a round column that allows the head to pivot sideways when unclamped to adjust the height. We all know that a drill press is not a mill, nobody has claimed otherwise. The main tip is dont. Like milling, or anything really, on the mini-lathe that is harder metal or steel the first part to be changed can be the spindle bearings. I fully understand the comparison he was trying to make, but it only illustrates his bias against people without unlimited resources, AND it starts with the premise that using a drill press in this way has some likelihood of causing more than $20k of damage, which as others have pointed out is just way beyond whats likely. I may have to make a new gear or two for it. This necessitates the need for a set of them to fit a range of cutter sizes, but it holds firmly and more safely. It is a horrible kludge and basically something you do on a throw-away tool. That is NOT a drive tang! CHATTER is what I need to work on. Those were my first thoughts, when I heard machining on a drill press. Yes, the chuck could fall out. If your not made for this job drill press doesnt have a female morse taper socket the chuck with a tail fits into, it will most likely have a jacobs jt series male mount that fits into the chuck body, both which will break free without anything to positively retain the taper tooling in/on it. I typically dont stand too close when its running. I only see a not working CNC head on there for that price now. Where can it go? I still wouldnt go milling steel, but for light jobs on wood/plastic/aluminum, Id be game with the right spindle. People also used to make tires out of wood, but it does not mean people should The 18,000rpm of my CNC router scares me. I sure hope the bearings in my drill press arent shot. Downcut end mills push upwards as they cut, but can only be used for edge milling because they push the chips downward. But relying on an unmodified drill press to do turning and milling is simply dangerous and not a good idea. If it ever did pop loose somehow, were back to having nothing but luck to keep it from flying out. Its not even difficult to be killed by a machine tool if you do the wrong thing, and injury or death happens faster than you have time to react EVERY time, so its a good idea not to become aware of where the dangers are. I used to have a Big Red 12 speed Drill/Mill from Harbor Freight. Fine for drilling, not for lateral. The fact that you didnt know is not surprising. Can someone elaborate on the bearings not designed for lateral forces? To tell if your drill press has a Morse Taper, extend the quill and look for a tall, narrow slot in each side. Or, third option, pay a machinist or buy some time at a shop dont many of these hackerspaces have these kinds of machines? Theres a reason safety is taught before moving on to any other facet of the subject. The high RPM scares the hell out of me. Just wear safety glasses and keep your fingers away from the spinning parts & pinch points, as always. [BrightBlueJim], I think you misunderstand [vinito64]s point. But just wow. While they are typically much lighter-duty than a drill press and not specifically designed for radial loads, its also not a big deal to replace the relatively cheap worn bearings in a drill press anyway and it would take quite a lot to wear them out, so the bearing issue is almost entirely a myth. GAAAH! Issue is definitely the tapered chuck. Ive developed an appreciation and awe for the amount of energy individual people can harness every day, from observing failures (machine and human) and from running the math. It was like a gunshot going off. Darn. Ive not tested the motor on a router with something to vary the speed. Yes, all you safety nazis, I said stop a Dremel motor with your fingers! kelvinA has updated the log for SecSavr Suspense [gd0105]. Sure, nothing in this world is truly guaranteed, but 9 times out of 10 Ill take the option with an entire team of people working to make sure its not going to take chunks out of me. Guess what? What is neat, is once you have enough tools made or available you can make your own tools. Of course this would require you also purchase the drill press fixture, but those are only around another $30 I think. Those $700 mills usually use a nylon gear on the main quill, so make sure there is a documented rebuild kit available prior to purchase. It wont work well, but you get extra points for doing two things you shouldnt. Oh the humanity. Quite a leap to label me as an elitist for pointing out a danger that was evidently overlooked by both the author and Mr. Strebel. Im not even going to bother discussing what side loads will do to a quill not designed for them as given the above, if your brain dead enough to do it anyway, nothing is going to dissuade you. Id figure on making a shield or guard around for safety reasons if needed. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-ak4NzjeIjE&t=1s, Then AvE has the right idea though not the complete follow through with the spindle upgrade: For a couple grand you can set up a nice metal working shop with lathe, milling machine, grinder, etc. All of the above comments ring true. Having said that, Dremel tools are notorious for having flimsy bearing mounts, i.e. You could do this every day for the rest of your life and be lucky enough to not get injured, but there IS a danger of serious injury and that is just a fact. maker wrote a comment on Internet of Things Microscope. Believe me, I understand why this seems to look like a lightbulb idea maybe a drill press looks so similar in form to a milling machine. Without a doubt. You may as well just twist drills instead of mill bits, since they arent designed for lateral cutting either. Challenging looking at the cheap harbor freight lathes that we were talking about converting to make tighter tolerance and I was even thinking going all the way to make CNC with. It took 5 years to find my machines. So sure, saying this can be done, but it carries substantially-increased risk and is not recommended is probably better (and more in the spirit of Hackaday) than dont ever do it. p: I think you may be talking out the wrong end of your alimentary system. Do Not put side loads on anything held by a taper. U.S. Presidents were even almost killed and killed over Union and Mafia issues from hostile takeovers of capital and assets. Was elated to find the article til I read the comments. But using a Harbor Freight drill press as a lathe starts to get into the territory of just plain ill advised. The rule DOES hold for any press with a proper bearing at the end of the quill. Gee if I wreck my bearings, Ill have to spend $15 on another set and 45 minutes changing them out. A drill press usually is just a wedge fit that gets tighter as you press the chuck down, and looser as you wobble it sideways. But for a small milling/drilling device they arent too bad and a fair bit better than a Dremel. It takes time and effort to do things right, for some things more time and effort than others. Youre missing so many points by so far that its obvious youre just a troll anyway, so Ill not reply to you again. What I end up with will be as good. I can mill aluminum if I take it a little at a time.Plastic of course is fine. :-|) The vacuum ideas are great and Eric does produce easy to follow videos. Nothing much happened, but I could see the end mill striking the work and breaking (if youre machining a hard material, which I wasnt) and sending bits of metal flying. That Proxxon XY table is NOT cheap. You can also find them maybe cheaper and/or closer on eBay and maybe Amazon or the like as well. First is the taper on the bottom end of the arbor (or spindle) the chuck is pressed onto. In the end, pretty much everyone it stops from doing this are the people who lack the knowledge and experience to understand the risks they are taking. Essentially its a standard vice, but with screws that allow you to move the clamped piece in the X and Y dimensions under the drill which can already move in the Z dimension. I have to buy 10, 3/4 to 1 black pipe and cut in hand and make custom handles for yards tools since I always tend to break them. In any case, I would not use a sharp tool like a turning chisel anywhere near the drill press, as, chuck separation notwithstanding, most drill chucks do not hold well against lateral loads, even if the small contact area doesnt distort the material causing it to walk. Isnt that one of their primary reasons for existing? Its still not great since pins or set screws are still much smaller (less strength) than a drawbar typically used in a milling machine, plus youd have to do it in such a way that the retaining method at least holds the taper securely and better if it slightly pulls in in, all while not damaging the tapered bore (or making sure all burrs are removed). Okay, in those thirty years, how many times have you seen a chuck come off and do $20,000 worth of damage? Its cheaper than paying for a doctor to patch you up because you used a drill press for something it was never design for.
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