And they tell us the blue jewel in the crown is just a synthetic. The three Cartier Santos-Dumont XL models come with alligator leather straps and a pin buckle. Compared to the current quartz Santos-Dumont models on Cartiers website, the new XL Santos-Dumont comes in at roughly EUR 2,000 more than its quartz counterparts. 14 bis), Movement: manufacture 430 MC hand-wound two-hand movement, Strap/Bracelet: gray alligator leather strap (Le Brsil and no. In it, Santos-Dumont became the first aviator to complete a flight of 220 metres, for which he took the French Aero Club award of 1906. On the one side, Frank agrees with everything said above, except that, according to him, the dial lacks originality and punch to him, the brushed pattern on the dial isnt pronounced enough and its too flat. The engraving here is of the no. It is now available for orders and is priced at EUR 6,960 (excl.
With a thickness of 7.5mm (thats just 0.2mm thicker than the quartz models currently available), the thinness manages to attenuate the length of the case. Good watch but the dial is a complete fail on many modern Cartier, very difficult to understand how such a thing can happen at cartier! The casebands feature a vertical satin brush contrasting to the bevelled and polished edge of the case. Wed earlier introduced the new Santos-Dumont XL collection, newly powered with a mechanical movement, the 430MC manual movement. Its also worth remembering that Santos-Dumonts daredevil flying feats made him a very popular figure in the day and his dapper dress sense combining Panama hats with linen suits with wing collars and trousers with large turn-ups became all the rage in Paris, the epitome of a stylish man of action. Its partly addressed on the new limited edition but please inject some life in dials again. Though initially I had a big concern about its size because of my skinny wrist(~16cm), I decided to grab it quickly after I put it on my wrist. Relatively simple, it is distinguished by its compact dimensions. However, from a collectors point of view, I have a bit of a mixed feel as the Santos Dumont embodied the most important wristwatch that Cartier ever made (for me even more important than the Cartier Tank) and previous the availability of the santos dumont was limited.
Previous Santos-Dumont models, for example, the 90th anniversary model of 1996 measuring 36mm with an ultra-slim Piguet movement and Breguet hands, is hard to find on the market today and has become a hot collectors item. Its large but sits well on my wrist, and the bigger size also adds some sporty vibe which is rooted in its heritage. We were fortunate enough to spend some hands-on time with the two-tone and the steel models and were pretty impressed. 14 bis, Dimensions: 43.5mm x 31.4 mm x 7.3mm (all three), Case Material: platinum (Le Brsil), 18k yellow gold (La Baladeuse), stainless steel and 18K yellow gold two-tone (no. More details at cartier.com. Why? Today, A new vintage inspired dive watch collection from, @longines continues their smash hit vintage reissu, After 17 years @mbandf launches their 20th caliber, Not every brand is after 1:1 reissues of the most, For your Sunday reading pleasure, @carol.besler di, Last weekend we celebrated @bremontwatches newest, Big, orange, and complicated. The following year, Cartier launched the model that most were waiting for, the XL (for Extra-Large but still not that large) with a mechanical movement, which we reviewed here. All three are powered by the in house 430 MC hand-wound movement, providing 38 hours of power reserve. The hallmark square bezel is slightly rounded at the edges and features the mandatory eight screws that are set deep into the metal.
cartier watches devon winston patek philippe heuer santos omega harry fine tag cool As a highlight and homage to Santos-Dumonts significance to Cartier, the little Cartier signature that typically appears at the seven oclock marker has Santos on it instead. Is it finally time to give in to the sleeveless trend? The silvered dial, decorated with a sunray satin finish, displays Cartiers signature Roman numerals and the railroad track that appeared on the first Santos-Dumont model. The dials of these three models follow a similar pattern, with Le Brsil going for a gleaming silver sunburst with polished applied numerals and gray sword hands, La Baladeuse remaining old-school Cartier with a champagne sunburst dial (along with black printed numerals and blued hands), and the no. The prices start at EUR 5,650 for the plain steel version (ref. 14 bis opting for clean gray, but the otherwise conservative La Baladeuse takes a left-field pairing with an earthy olive green tone strap. But until 2019, we were only talking about a modern, larger and sportier watch inspired by the original Santos, not a watch with historical accuracy. First, and not presented here, is a costly platinum version with a light blue dial (reference CRWGSA0048, limited to 100 pieces). He told me he would prefer a matte, off-white dial or a classic Cartier guilloch pattern on a silvery-white dial, maybe with blued Breguet hands. despite my criticism of the watch (above) simply because of the features / price ratio, the article itself certainly deserves praise, and I actually still would love to wear a Santos myself .I absolutely have no issues with how it looks.Cartier have done an excellent job in that respect and in their favor have released enough different versions to give us a choice of dial. In tribute, the Santos is the only Cartier watch that takes the name of its inspirator, and since 1978 this has taken two forms: the Santos De Cartier collection, heralded by its arrival that year on an integrated bracelet (very of the moment, given the decade's taste for designing luxury sports watches), at which point Santos Dumont was reserved for models fitted with leather straps. Second, the dial has a stamped guilloch-like pattern in the centre, adding depth and animation. Beating inside the case is the calibre 430 MC, which is based on the Piaget 430P, a 2.15mm hand-wound movement also used in the Drive Extra-Flat. It measures 46.6mm in length, which is about as large as most 38mm round watches, but the width of the case is only 33.9mm which is, admittedly, quite small compared to modern standards. All in all, with this combination of colours and the compact size of the watch, this Santos-Dumont XL Limited Edition is once again typical of Cartiers vision of elegance. Santos-Dumont called the Le Brsil balloon the smallest and the most beautiful of his inventions. The new @hublot Big, The @tagheuer Monaco Dark Lord is back with, A $2000+ @casio_us? What started as a bespoke commission for the Brazilian aviator went into serial production in 1911 with LeCoultre movements. It also adds warmth and a pleasant touch of luxury. Also, the signature Roman numerals have been replaced by applied, rhodium-plated Arabic numerals, once again changing the look of the watch quite dramatically. I agree with George, this article is the most detailed and in depth on this model so far. Its worth pointing out that there are two Santos collections at Cartier: the core Santos de Cartier collection and the more historically accurate, and more often than not, limited Santos-Dumont watches. It also adds warmth and a pleasant touch of luxury. What started off as a bespoke commission for the Brazilian aviator went into serial production in 1911 with LeCoultre movements. For more details, please visit cartier.com. Raf Simons will be showing at London Fashion Week 2022, Off to the tennis? The Santos took off again in the 1970s when it was revisited in a bracelet piece with screws on the bezel and bracelet. Of the three, this combination feels the most classically Cartier, if a bit risk-averse. La Baladeuse takes the classic Cartier 18k yellow gold approach, accented with a sapphire-topped crown. Just ahead of the Watches & Wonders 2020 launch, we introduced the four limited-edition versions of the Santos-Dumont with engravings of the aviators legendary flying machines on the caseback.
How far can you stray from the original without corrupting its essence? The case of the modern Santos-Dumont is the direct descendant of the original 1904 model, with its thin lugs, beaded winding crown with cabochon and, of course, its screwed angled bezel. Lastly, the no.
Around back, as the name suggests, is an engraving of the small, motorized La Baladeuse airship used by Santos-Dumont to fly around the city of Paris. Stay tuned.
These were futuristic visions of Cartiers ability to compete among the most innovative of watch brands. A final model in the limited edition, and what might be considered Santos-Dumonts crowning glory, is the La Demoiselle, inspired by the monoplane with which he capped his career as an aviator, prior to the start of the First World War. Who has the best summer watch flex: Erling Haaland, Mo Salah or Harry Kane? Whether or not we agree on the dial, this is by far the best article, about the Santos-Dumont XL!! Choosing the four different types of aircraft with which to illustrate Santos-Dumont's early experiments was straightforward, explains Cartier International's director of style, image and heritage, Pierre Rainero: We wanted to commemorate the most emblematic aircraft, to have an example of each possibility and all the different approaches (balloon,dirigible), because they were very ahead of their time. Last year, a Santos-Dumont watch that paid homage to the 1904 model was quietly introduced alongside a Santos de Cartier chronograph. A final reminder of Cartiers indebtedness to Santos-Dumont: the house signature normally residing in one of the branches of the VII has been replaced with Santos. The iconic square bezel with eight screws, the pointy blue cabochon protruding from the beaded crown, the Roman numerals, the railroad tracks, etc However, the dimensions and finishes are more in tune with contemporary tastes and our expectations from a Maison like Cartier. While a bit pricey for the average joe, I feel the XL size is a marvel and it really doesnt appear that large on the models wrist.
The original watch was characterised by its squared bezel with visible screws, in radical opposition to the round faces found on pocket watches of the era. I agree to my personal data being stored and used to receive the newsletter or other updates about Monochrome Watches. Turning the watch over, the closed caseback reveals an engraving of Alberto Santos-Dumonts flying machine N19 a theme that was first used in the 2020 limited editions. Not a too excessive mark-up considering the incorporation of a slim mechanical manual-winding movement with practically zero sacrifices on the thickness front. The third model is Le 14 bis, a steel edition with a yellow gold bezel and dark grey dial thats restricted to 500 pieces globally. To me Cartier has always meant opulence and class and the Santos-Dumont XL certainly fills the bill.
Fitted with blue sword-shaped hands, there is nothing else on the dial except the word Cartier printed below 12 oclock. Not conservative, slightly original, effortlessly elegant, trs dandy. First, the colour, which is now a warm and rather striking ros. Largely overlooked by the specialised watch media because it was fitted with a quartz movement, the Santos-Dumont of 2019 featured historical nods to the original with a beaded winding crown and the prominent blue cabochon along with a flatter, less voluminous case that the Santos de Cartier.
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cartier buffalo sunglasses horn temples While all three take the Santos-Dumont aesthetic in different directions, theres nothing here that feels out of place or extreme. All in all, with this combination of colours and the compact size of the watch, this Santos-Dumont XL Limited Edition is once again typical of Cartiers vision of elegance. If you think about it though, collectors can still focus on those earlier limited models and everyone else can enjoy the newer, more easily available versions.In this way, Cartier offers something to attract both kinds of buyer. In addition to the fact that this watch priced well below EUR 6,000 in steel features an ultra-thin Piaget movement, the overall quality of the case/bezel is pretty impressive in this price range. Open your door to 500,000 watch enthusiasts every day. The collection is named after Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont who commissioned a watch from his friend Louis Cartier in 1904 to be worn while piloting his flying machines without having to lift his hand from the controls. And its dial is printed with a subtle three-dimensionality. Obviously, there are many people who favour the hassle-free maintenance of a quartz watch and are not prepared to spend an additional EUR 1,900 for a mechanical movement, but they are probably not devotees of MONOCHROME. The novelty of this new limited edition is the dial. This year, the Parisian brand introduces two new limited edition models based on the Cartier Santos-Dumont XL Hand-Wound. It was the ninth version of his airships, a single-seater air travel solution that was meant for use in urban spaces.
Like the 1904 model, the crown is beaded and set with a blue cabochon but looks infinitely sturdier than the original (the models we had for the hands-on have blue synthetic spinel cabochons, the sapphire is reserved for the gold model). The four chosen planes which are the most famous show how Santos-Dumont explored the different ways of flying that were available at the time.. It is equipped with a quick-release system to change the strap without the need for tools. The Cartier Santos-Dumont XL Limited Edition 2021 Steel-and-Gold reference CRW2SA0025 is a limited edition of 500 pieces. The case, thanks to the Piaget-based hand-wound movement, is also pretty thin, at 7.5mm. One thing is flat, another thing is flattened. He was visionary, explains Rainero of Santos-Dumont. This would be the mission of another model, the Santos-Dumont, a name that refers to the more elegant, more historically accurate models in Cartiers books. Not only was Louis Cartiers watch the precursor of the gents wristwatch, but the fact that it was worn by a pilot has also earned it the title of the worlds first pilot watch. Finally, Monochrome Watches have to be given credit here because the website covers a lot of watches from a lot of different brands in far more detail than many other sites which tend to concentrate their efforts on one of two brands when it comes to hands on reviews. Rendered in 18K yellow gold and offered on a green alligator leather strap, the Santos-Dumont La Baladeuse comes set with a sapphire cabochon on its crown and features a champagne dial and blued, sword-shaped hands. I have owned the two-tone version for one week.
The bezel is executed in 18k rose gold and entirely polished. 14 bis airplane, one of Santos-Dumonts first award-winning craft, an airplane that first flew in 1906. In a two-tone setup its just an undoubted classic. Cartier has made a reputation as a brand of preserving iconic forms, and this new engraved Santos-Dumont trilogy is an excellent example of this. And, in addition, this makes the Santos the first pilots wristwatch in history. Are there more Louis Vuitton x Nike Air Force 1s on the way? 14 bis offers a handsome two-tone stainless steel and 18k yellow gold approach, finished with a blue spinel crown. Hmmm. The Santos watch is my dream but it will be a platonic love for now; 14 bis taking a more modern masculine approach with a charcoal gray sunburst dial contrasting dramatically with gold hands. With a height of just 2.1mm, the movement runs at a frequency of 21,600vph/3Hz and has a relatively short power reserve of 38 hours. The models we are looking at today feature the same aesthetics as the 2019 models but are now fitted with mechanical movements and come in only one size: XL. The watch is fitted with a Cartier-branded version of Piagets ultra-thin, manual-winding calibre 430P calibre for the hours and minutes. Three versions in steel, in two-tone steel and pink gold and in solid pink gold of the Santos-Dumont XL were presented in the digital edition of Watches & Wonders 2020, all fitted with mechanical movements and, heres the other bit of great news, at prices that sound pretty fair. I guess its a good thing to see a watch becoming easier available for a wider audience. The Santos watch is one of Cartiers oldest collections and one entirely dedicated to men. Similarly fitted with the manual-wound 430 MC calibre, its delivered in its own lacquered maple wood presentation case, accompanied by a travel pouch in brown alligator leather and a pair of Santos De Cartier cufflinks in rhodiumised 18K white gold with red tiger eye inlays. Finally, the hands are blued and echo the colour of the crowns cabochon. All three are available now through authorized retailers, with the Cartier Engraved Santos-Dumont Limited Edition Le Brsil priced at $18,700; the Cartier Engraved Santos-Dumont Limited Edition La Baladeuse coming in at $14,300; and the Cartier Engraved Santos-Dumont Limited Edition no. Well, Cartiers latest Santos-Dumont XL manages to reconcile both these extremes in what is perhaps the most historically faithful yet appealingly proportioned and elegant iteration to date. Cartier 2022 PAPERS MINT Cartier Santos Dumont Rose Gold Steel Cartier Limited Edition Santos Dumont W2SA0025, Cartier W2SA0025PGLIMITEDSSxPG, Cartier Limited Edition Santos Dumont salmon dial. It was the aircraft in which his first public European flight took place, and with which he won the Archdeacon Cup as well as the Aero Club of France prize for flight distance. Among the many shapes and designs, one of the most emblematic watches is the Santos, generally acknowledged as the oldest mens wristwatch. Second, and far more accessible (and probably also even more visually attractive), is this steel and rose gold model with a whole new dial design (reference CRW2SA0025). I like this refreshed design since its announcement in 2019. I beg to differ.When you look at the prices on the Cartier website, particularly here in Japan, they are quite expensive when you consider what you are getting. And this is where Brice doesnt agree To him, the silver brushed dial is the main reason why he appreciates this new take on the Santos-Dumont, with a slightly more modern and minimalistic approach. If you look closely, youll see how the leather strap reaches all the way up to meet the case leaving practically no space between the leather and the metal. The alligator leather straps are, for the most part, very traditional Cartier fare, with both Le Brsil and the no. SUPERLATIVE: A WATCHMAKING STORY OF BROTHERHOOD AND SURVIVAL WITH AUTHOR SCOTT LENGA, What makes a tool watch Professional? Each of the three new models begins with the iconic shape of the 43.5mm large Santos-Dumont case, and while the square form with its distinctive bezel remains unchanged, each of the three new models interprets it in a different material. I agree to my personal data being stored and used to receive the newsletter or other updates about Monochrome Watches. Characterised by a square case with visible screws, a shape that flew in the face of fashion of the day for round pocket watches, the Santos has gone down in history as the first wristwatch purpose-built and designed for a man.
CRW2SA0017) and EUR 15,000for the solid 18k pink gold model (ref. Nowhere near as pleasing aesthetically as the original with Roman numerals and better dial visibility not to mention this has a tacky engraving on the back. CRWSSA0032), EUR 7,800 for the steel-and-gold model (ref. well yes, you get the Cartier design and style which is fantastic, to be sure but you also get an extremely short power reserve, lack of waterproofing, unless you pay even more for a sports ADLC version. Perhaps the pice de rsistance certainly the most limited is the 30-piece La Demoiselle, an extra large (46.6 x 33.9mm) platinum model recognising Santos-Dumonts most successful flying machine and the first to be mass produced. For 2021, theres a new pair of Cartier Santos-Dumont XL Limited Edition watches, including this handsome two-tone watch that well be looking at today.. congratulations Cartier for a beautiful work. Along with the permanent collection, Cartier also launched limited edition watches inspired by Alberto Santos-Dumonts flying machines, which were pretty well received. To each his own.
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