I've become so used to the 1 click orders saving nothing that it had passed by me! I think the two earth crackle paint would be my best suggestion if you want to do the simplest base possible (just put the texture on, drybrush and stop there). Be mindful that the material can shrink a bit in the drying process as well. Orbecome a patronon Patreon for exclusive tutorials, guides, and behind the scenes content. Stirland Mud is paired with Stirland Battlemire. He was sprayed white and then washed with Seraphim Sepia. He's a regular contributor to White Dwarf Magazine including 4 Armies of the Month features and has written articles for the Warhammer Community site. I find many other basing materials to be quite messy, but this feels just like painting the base and not like basing. I will review the 11 different Citadel Texture paints sold by Games Workshop. In combination with the other texture of the same colour, you could get quite a lot of variety on a base (but still with a limited amount of time used), The coverage is very good, and you can do good looking bases with not a lot of texture used, You can get a different colour if you apply enough paint afterwards, Air can ruin your paint pot before you get to use the texture, Not that different from the classic texture paints, It can be hard to discern the texture from a distance (looks cool in hand but bland on the tabletop), The grit in the paints is made of plastic microbeads which is very bad for the environment if you flush excess material in the drain, Painting the rim after you are all done will make the texture pop a bit more, Booth earth versions are very beginner friendly, The Badland/Ironcrust could be painted to be a different colour, You can mix the two versions to make something more special, The two earth versions are used by many painters as a basing method. My paint didnt crack. Its a shame about your Agrellan Earth, it would be nice to see a picture of the model complete when you get a good pot. Shoutout to our fantastic patrons: Chris C., chaoticflanagan, Mike C., Wyliekyote, pawl, Fugu, FrenchHobbyist, Noelle S., Emperors Hobby, Nate H., Sigurd H., Karakal, Akhaed, Christian H., David D., Christopher O., James G., Ricardo G., Matt P., Doc Remington, Josh L., Adam, Martin D., Roger N., Bastian O., Sam P., Jimmy, Kobold, Mark S., Chris M., Thomas J., Ryan, NavyKes, David C., Andrii A., Tommaso A., and Eudon. This means the texture paint will now be in a clear pot (24 ml) and it will say Technical instead of Texture on the pot. I experienced no material coming off while drybrushing or painting it, and I went quite rough with a big brush. I'm curious how it looks if you do a heavy dry brush and then a lighter one on top of it with the basecoat. I picked up a pot of the cracking paint and Nihilakh Oxide last night. Its dried a little translucent and it is gloss and looks wet. You just paint it on and you get shiny green goo effect. You will find them easy to use and no technical difficulties with the material rubbing off or any other weird mishaps. The texture of the paint in the pot is very smooth, almost looking like slightlydry paint. All in all the snow effect looks much more real than alternatives I have tried and seen. I use the following pictures for each texture paint: 1. Are there any videos on how to apply the texture paints? This is a picture of the texture applied to a base that has been primed white and painted black afterwards. This is a picture of the texture applied to a base that has been primed grey and painted with blue afterwards. Even after the paint has dried a bit in one of my pots, it did not ruin it and it still cracked as it should. The only paint I think that is truly unnecessary is Ryza Rust. The texture will dry on your base and will provide a hard texture. Its opaque. I did not find any colour change in the drying process. I find that they sometimes fall off. it has no fluidity. In their version, they have some sort of texture underneath, and a dry brush has been applied. I use these images to comment on how the picture is different from what the paint will look in the real world straight out of the pot. You will basically not experience anything coming off not when painting on it or when playing with your miniatures. This is a dry compound paint. The thin version could be very good to drybrush, but the thick would be a bit hard to get a good effect on. Those Paints look interessting, i'm awaiting my order the next days. I have based around750 of assorted big (40mm and up) miniatures with one pot, so the price is not that high. If you look closely at my agrelland earth version above, you can see some tiny bits of white. In the following section, I will take a look at three paints that are very similar in texture type but different in colour. The technical storage or access that is used exclusively for anonymous statistical purposes. Yep I picked them all up except for the rust too. I think this would have been better if it was an orange texture paint (fine grit in it). You might notice a small difference in colour between the top-down version and the angled version. In fact, this also goes for the two earth versions. The crackle paste dries somewhat quickly, but I would let it sit overnight. Yeah I think if I'd have stopped before the pus stage I'd have had a legitimate model. It does dry slightly transparent on raised areas. Yup. I found that these textures took a bit more time to dry than the others do. Games Workshop produces are range of Citadel Technical Paints that can really help with making quick bases or achieving a cool look on a model very quickly. Everything else seems to be quite good though! With the rust you should use the corrosion wash first, it has texture and runs into the recesses. I found it quite easy to scoop the material out of the pots and onto the bases. The snow one was really bad, but the other two was okay. Categories Reviews, Miniature Painting and Miniature Hobby. Top durability! The texture in the pot is actually a bit like snow, only dry and not cold. You need to layer it bit to get a dramatic effect. Typhus Corrosion and Ryza Rust will make a good combo for Orks though. I do not find this a huge problem, because I just glue my tufts, skulls and other bits on the newly opened spots, but you need to be aware of this before drybrushing them. The application will be very easy, but remember that less is more with a snow effect. Despite numerous tests and waiting hours. There is a host of different materials out there. The crackle paint is one of my go-to when I need a quick base for a miniature. This is a picture of the texture applied to a base that has been primed black. While not that different from the classic texture paints, they do open a few new possibilities. What happens is that the crackle paint will lift whatever paint there is below it. The technical storage or access that is used exclusively for statistical purposes. It was fast and simple. After that, I will write about how the crackle paste is to apply, how I think the result was, their durability, how the results differs from the GW image and my overall verdict on the crackle texture paints. Whilst it is thick, I kinda wished the consistency was like the slime you got as a kid with your ghostbuster toys. I bought all the paints and tried 3 of them yesterday, namely the Blood one, Agrellan Earth and Nurgle's Rot. I found that stippling was more effective in applying this paint. This is a picture of the texture just after it has been applied to a base that has been primed grey. If you are looking to do an even surface that can be somewhat tricky, but I think the point of the texture is to add depth so an even finish is not something you should be aiming at anyway. Wouldnt take long and would look pretty effective. The crackletexture paints took a bit of damage, but I can see no marks or flake from these grit ones. They drybrush the rust around the recesses and it will get on the texture of the corrosion wash. And the Agrellean Earth is applied way too thin that is why the cracks are too thin to see. The two Agrellan pots share the same colour and the two Martian pots share the same colour. To apply it to the model I loaded up a brush held the model over some old newspaper placed the brush in front of my mouth and with quick sharp puff of breath I added spatter to the model. Top notch durability again. The three paints all come in a 24ml version for 4.75 from Games Workshop. Ive used it here to dirty up the brass. This is somewhat of a surprise since every other snow effect texture or powder I have used has been a big hassle. For each different texture paint, I have tried to provide pictures that accurately display what it is you are getting from the paint. They all work as in GW's videos and are really cool. The durability on the two earth versions as not that good, but I found no flaking on the Badland/Ironcrust. I found the Dust version to be way too dense to get on, and it was very hard to get an even coat. Right of the bat, it is clear to see what the difference there is between these versions and the earlier grit versions, at least if you see them side by side as above. The one exception is the Armageddon dust, that looks very much like the Dunes version. So it's nothing I've done. I grabbed the blood, blue was and the nurgle colour. Real shame Agrellan Earth didn't work, as I felt it was the most interesting of the new "Special effects" set maybe you applied it to thick or thin? List of all Citadel Technical Paints GW Texture paints, A note on the pictures used for this texture paint article, The 3 classic grit based rough-textured paints, The 3 smaller grained gritty texture paints. Age of Miniatures is compensated for referring traffic and business to these companies.Read more about our affiliate links here. To apply the paint use a detail brush and paint it in the areas you want it. Light brown colours can work well with almost any other colours on the base, Armageddon Dust is paired withArmeggadon Dunes. It is striking how little texture GW have used on their Martian Ironearth version. The colour is also quite bland and flat on all of the paints, so drybrushing is definitely recommended. It has a tendency to flake off otherwise. I reviewed this stuff as well and I was able to get mine to crack it requires a very thick coat and the the thicker it goes on the larger the sections that crack. Luckily, if it does become an issue I think it would be easy to apply a bit more snow where stuff has fallen off. This has got to be the coolest name for a paint ever. It is clear from all of the GW pictures that their version has been heavily drybrushed. A good job on GWs part! This is all wrong. I am a huge fan of the classic grit texture paints and can only recommend them. Great choice of model and application of technique, I didn't think there would be a single model that would suit all at once but this works really well. I find that there is a small difference in the nuance between Agrellan Earth and the Agrelland Badland, as well as between the two versions of the Martian colour. I have some bases I did when these paints first came out years ago, and they are still going strong. This is a good thing because if you use both techniques on one base it will look quite good. This could be due to the consistency of texture applied to the base, a difference in how old the pots were and so on. Scale Comparison: MkVI Horus Heresy Space Marine Legionaries, Review: Warcry Heart of Ghur (2nd Edition starter set), Tutorial: How to paint an inverted super hot plasma glow, Tutorial: How to paint Astra Militarum Wyvern, Showcase: Stormcast Eternals Lord-Commander Bastian Carthalos by Tom, Showcase: Army of the Imperium Commanders, Tutorial: How to paint Dwarf Grim Hammers from the Hobbit. No extra costs for you and up to 20% discount on Warhammer products! The chalky look the oxide dries to its phenomenal as corrosion. The colour is yellowy green and quite bright. This is a picture of the texture just after it has been applied to a base that has been primed black. After that, some tufts has been glued on and in the end, they have applied the Valhallan Blizzard on top quite liberally. 3. http://immaterium.wordpress.com/2011/04/11/aow-painting-khemri-bases/, Slaves to Darkness / Warriors of Chaos (66), Review: The 25 new Citadel Contrast Colours, Review: Colour Forge Spray Primers more paint for less & matched to Citadel Colours, Review: Chaos Space Marine Cultists & Dark Commune, Review: Horus Heresy Leviathan Dreadnought with claw and drill weapons. I have done no highlighting or any tricks that will make it look better. This website and all of its contents are 2011 - 2022 Tale of PaintersThis website is completely unofficial and in no way endorsed by Games Workshop Limited Used without permission All rights reserved , Functional cookies (for basic website functions). A major thumbs up from me! Have you checked out the videos on GW's site? Sometimes it can be hard to nail the same effect over and over again, You will have some of the texture rubbing of when drybrushing and playing with the two earth versions, It will be hard to paint the two earth versions to become another colour completely. The GW version of booth agrellanversions is not that far from each other, if you look past that I got a bit too much texture on my badland version. The texture is quite thick straight from the pot, so do not use a brush to apply it. Using a brush on the two earth version is not out of the question, as there is no grit in the paint as long as you remember to clean that sucker thoroughly afterwards (in fact you should always clean your brushes. You can find all of the texture paints here. Youcan basicallyuse any hard long plastic thingy, but if you are are a fanboy like me you can get a plastic stick with the GW brand on it. Having spoken to Stahly, he says its exactly the same as Vallejo Game Colour Smokey Ink. If you do the thin version you would have to use other materials in combination to make the base look good. To stipple you your stipple brush tip into the paint, then a couple of dabs onto a tissue and then you dab away at the area you wish to cover. A little too much spatter to the shield but it kinda looks cool. In this article, I go through all Citadel Technical Paints that I classify as the gw texture paints. I wonder what Blood Angel armour would look like painted with this paint? Not good! The GW version looks pretty good, but they also have a lot going on. If you are going to base the whole of your army, it can become a bit expensive in the long run. In the following section, I will take a look at three slightly different texture paints: The three paints share their colour with the three textures covered in the last section. If you play in a well light area, this is what it will look like to you. While the effect is not as obvious, and will not pop in the same way on the table, it looks quite good. Games Workshop currently sells 12 different texture paints. I bought two of the Vampire Counts one and the Dark Elf bundle my wallet is crying. On the first version, I apply a lot of texture to make a thick version. You will need some sort of tool to move it around. You cannot use a brush to scoop it around, but any hard tool will do nicely. It comes out easily, but it can be a bit difficult to get it to fall how you want it to. I put coat of mournfang down first then layered Agrellan Earth. Booth cracked in the way advertised and a bit of drybrushing will go a long way of making them look like the GW version. GW has used very little texture on their versions, so those are the images versions I have put side by side with them. It looks like they have done a mix of a thick coat and a light coat. A beginning painter might not know this, making their representation quite far from how the base actually looks. I just trialled some I bought from WHW yesterday and it seems that bad batch is rather large. In many ways, these paints are a shortcut to a great looking base and the grit texture massively helps cheat out a great base with minimal effort. Imagine an army painted like this? It was easy to get the texture out of the pot and onto the base, but it was actually a bit hard to move the stuff around the base in the way I wanted to do. In all examples, I make two versions using the same texture paint. Being a dry brush paint doesnt make sense. Do not use only the snow effect on the base. But these are the new Special Effect paints, not the Technical paints (Lahmian Medium, 'Ardcoat, Imperial Primer, Liquid Green Stuff), no? All in all, I find the three grit textures to be easy to apply. I have found a pot of Blackfire Earth, Lustrian Undergrowth andMourn Mountain Snow. If you plan on using it for vehicles then buy lots. If youre unfamiliar with this range then its essentially a really thick paint. The technical storage or access is necessary for the legitimate purpose of storing preferences that are not requested by the subscriber or user. I gotta applaud GW on this one, great products. I really hope this is limited to this pot or a small number. A new texture paint, Mordant Earth,has arrived (still need to update this post with the new paint). I think the thick versions look way better than the thin version. On the rust. We also participate in affiliate programs with other companies. Lets see if the new technical paints can turn him into something cool. This is what GW produces: But you could also really dive into all of the different manufacturers and see what they have. The bases I used were primed white for another project, so I just did a good black coat on the top of them before applying the Agrellan Earth. I know its a demo run with the new colours, but its really cool just like that. The two different colours are light brown and a very striking red/orange. I doubt a wash/shade would work very good on the thin version (not a lot of cracks to fall into), but could definitely be used with the thick version. Age of Miniatures is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program. It is possible to find them in a smaller version, but if you intend to use it for basing your whole army, you should probably go with the big version. If you want to read more about how to do that, I have written a good guide on it here). I have seen several people use a mixture of earth and badland to base their minis, and I did not notice any difference in colour there. The technical storage or access is required to create user profiles to send advertising, or to track the user on a website or across several websites for similar marketing purposes. Im a big fan of Tamiya clear red. More after the jump. The edges of the base were painted with Steel Legion Drab. I found the price to be perfectly acceptable. The angled version is taken indoor but close to a big window with a natural light source. Only thing is though I blasted mine with a hair dryer to see if that would work and it did! Then why not support Tale of Painters by using our links for your next hobby purchases: Wayland Games,Element Games, ebay, and Amazon. There are also some weird white specs that look like sand corn in my version, making it more likely that my pot is a failed version. After drying, it sticks on to the base. If you want to do that style of basing, one pot will go a long way. Most of themincludesome grit in the paint, and all of them willprovide textureto a base when dried. I was really skeptical of this range too, I also use a clear red mix for blood and looking at the bftbg pot it just looks like regular paint but the results seem good. Makes me want to start a undead army which I've always wanted to do since a kid. First, you will get a lot of pictures of each paint. GW has put up a PDF describing how to achieve the sameeffect. This means it would be easy to do a base where you mixe those two textures together because the colour will blend (it also means that I constantlypick up the wrong paint by mistake). My pot of Agrellan Earth worked a charm. After that, I will write about how the paints are to apply, how I think the result was, their durability, how the results differ from the GW image and my overall verdict on the texture paints. Rust settles where water settles, typically in recesses but stippling fixes that, however, you can stipple any orange paint and get the same result. This is a review of the new technical paints from Citadel and a tutorial on how I painted the above Skeleton. Support our work by using the affiliate links from our /partner stores for your next hobby purchases so we can continue to bring you fantastic FREE content every day: Thanks a lot, we appreciate any help to continue and grow Tale of Painters . The process is surprisingly like painting the base and so does not differ from the other techniques you need to learn as a beginner. I am not a big fan of how the thick versions came out, and the Dust version was just bad in my experience. This wont do that sadly. This is a picture of the texture applied to a base that has been primed and painted black on top afterwards. If not, you will probably get something on the feet of the miniature (but if you do it by purpose it can look cool), Mixthe thin and thick version to make a more diverse base, Mix the classic grit versions with crackle effect paint or other basing materials to make a more unique base, Remember to paint the rim of your base after you are done with your base. Why are they not included here? In this case, it lifted the black paint a bit, and now you can see the white primer underneath. This is probably how it will look on most tabletops. I was slightly skeptical when the new paints were announced, because I have existing paints and methods to achieve these effects. You are going to see a lot of armies based with these textures, so if you want something unique you have to add more stuff to the bases, The thin version is a bit bland and the thick solution can become expensive in the long run, The grit in the paints is made of plastic microbeads which is very bad for the environment if you flush excess material in the drain (do not do that! This also means that badly done snow bases are a very common sight. I made my stipple brush by taking an old brush and cutting the bristles down. Your support will help us cover our monthly costs and fund future projects so we can bring you more and better content. olour is also quite bland and flat on all of the paints, so drybrushing is definitely recommended. The durability of the texture is quite amazing. The shots of the top-down versions are taken in an indoor setting with an artificial light source. Did you like this post? The snow effect is a classic go-to inspiration for a lot of new players. Each of them shares the same colour as the other texture paints that share their name. The difference between the thick and the thin version is quite big and looks almost nothing alike. The Astrogranite and the Mud versions both come out more flat looking whereas their counterpart has a more rough finish. Ive just tried the Agrellan Earth. Initial impression opening the pot is its not translucent like Tamiya clear read. I really love the model as well that you painted. On the second version, I apply as little texture as possible, while still covering the base in its entirety to make a thin version. I've just realised that buying the Dark Elf bundle actually saves you money. I tried to replicate it with the thin version I did of it, but I used way too much. Doing the thick version will take a bit of practice, because of how wet the paint is. Yeah, I skipped Ryza rust if it had been a technical like the oxide but in Orange it would have been huge! These, together with some great shades, are truly a beginning basers best friend. All of the colors are the same with the same name. Like crackle paste that I've used on basing in the past, I assume that getting the thickness right is the most important part. Thank you very much, we appreciate any help to keep us going! Also, Games Workshop no longer provides a preview of how the paint will look (which is super strange). A picture of the paint just after it has been applied but before it has dried. What should I look for? I thought the exact same thing about Ryza Rust rust is found in the recesses, whereas a drybrush would put it on the raised areas, but I think it works in parts. So you get a nice strong colour that runs into the recesses. Doesnt take too long to dry which is good. So Astrogranite Debris is the same colour as Astrogranite, Armeggadon Dunes is paired with Armageddon dust and Stirland Battlemire is the same colour as Stirland Mud (more on those other paints in the next section).
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