Attach "PP06_Cable-Holder-central-wall_Outer-Part" with two screws and washers. The power regulator has 4 terminals: two of them are labelled "IN" and two of them are labelled "OUT". This requires some effort. In which the awesome power of 3D printing resurrects an obsolete part. As we are running quite high current through the circuit, the switch should withstand at least 10A (ampere) in a country with 220V-power-grid. Now trace the four screw holes with a pencil. Put the hose through the lid of the hose-coupling (PP03) like in the second picture. Step 35: Trace the Screw-holes for PP1007. The screw holes lie on the horizontal and vertical marks. If you cannot slide them in completely, work the parts with a utility knife or similar. The threaded part of the tightener needs to point towards the cable holder that is mounted on the bottom of the chamber. For drilling into the side surfaces it's helpful to put up some sort of guide, to align the board to it like I did in the photo, After drilling the boards are ready for assembly. To find such a module online, try keywords like 2000W, dimmer, power / voltage regulator, speed control, PWM, as in the picture. Drill (16x) 5mm-holes where the lines cross. Again, start by putting some glue on the wall that seperates the chambers (or more precisely on the foil that covers it now). You can check if the ends are planar by putting something flat and rigid on them: If you see gaps you should grab a file and make work the ends planar. Afterwards sand the edges. Later you will need another small piece of wood (at least 130x20mm) to make the handle and while the grain direction is not important for the pieces we make in the current step, the handle needs to be grained in length, so try to save a 130mm long piece that is grained length-wise, Put the boards on the table in front of you as in the picture. Using light to make your object look just right is both art and science, so we found a pro who can break it down for you: McKay Nilson. f e(T5iGDI7 3.) The black power-switch in the picture fits right away whereas you would need to cut off the cap of the white one as in the last picture. Align the printed part "PP1011_Outlet-Filter-Holder_outer-part" with the mark on the board. Give Feedback Terms of Use An interactive particle accelerator which utilizes a inductively coupled RF ion source for beam-on-target fusion research. There are two types of those switches: One is normally open (NO) and the other is normally closed (NC). I.E. Why buying an expensive cyclone vacuum cleaner when you can build yourself one? This small piece of cord will connect the power-regulator with motor & heat-sensor-switch. Thread the rope from below through one of the handle-holders (PP10) and twice through the handle like in the picture. Now the electronics are ready to go into Tenok. When you deem the part properly aligned, trace the 4 screw-holes. For those smaller shafts you should also just drill a 10mm-hole (otherwise you have to wind some tape around them, when attaching them). Us normal mortals drill a hole (~8mm) and cut out the circular 143mm-hole from there with a jigsaw. Glue and screw the BOTTOM-board to the "H.". In the next step we will finally connect the motor and close the circuit. Small built-in square holes in the parts serve as guides and need to be aligned with the horizontal and vertical marks. Before glueing the "H" together, also put glue on the surfaces of the three boards that point upwards. We do not want to tighten them too much though. Screw the Hose-adaptor onto the hose like in the third picture (screws tight counter-clockwise). -mark are visible in the lower right corner like in the drawing. Now trace the two screw holes with a pencil. The screw holes lie on the vertical mark. LEFT INSIDE / RIGHT INSIDE: Add a horizontal line per board. REAR OUTSIDE / FRONT OUTSIDE: Add a horizontal line per board. Remove all the glue that has been squeezed out with a damp cloth. And again repeat the previous step with the last uncovered wall. LEFT-side-surface / RIGHT-side-surface: Add three horizontal marks per board. The two digits in the end stand for the hose diameter. For that we will need: You can already slide the sliders (PP1002) into the base (PP1003), just like in the second picture, Step 184: Put the Collected Parts Together, Make two stacks of three rubber parts each, place them on the "celtic cross" (PP1008) and put the motor-adaptor (PP1003) on top. There are five different rubber parts: Some are made from pieces of tube, others are cut out of the tube. Two of the screw holes lie on the vertical mark. You can of course also look for another drawstring-bag-tutorial and follow that one I just did a quick search and there might be better ones. Now that you know how long to cut your rubber pieces, make three more of them and place them on the front hatch like I did in the picture. However 50mm long ones will also work with most motors. Step 173: Installing the Power-Switch & Button. While you tighten them, grab the cable, so that it does not turn so much together with the tighteners. Why does the wooden handle suddenly look strange? TOP OUTSIDE: Add two horizontal marks (one of them is the extension of a mark you made earlier). Repeat the last two steps 7 times, so you have 8 shock absorbers in total. Attach nuts and washers again and tighten the nuts by hand so that the motor is held in place well. Sand the marks off and apply some linseed oil (or other finish, if you used something else). Now finish attaching this piece by glueing the 20mm wide folded strips to the walls. INLET: Align the printed part "PP23_Central-Filter-Holder_Base" with the marks on the board. Attach the two cables from the power cord and switch to the "IN"-terminals by unscrewing the terminal a bit and fastening the revealed cable-end with the terminal screw. 20mm: TOP OUTSIDE: Drill a 20mm-hole where you made a 20mm-mark before. The guides on the outside of PP23 need to be aligned with the horizontal and vertical marks. Flip the boards upside down, so that they lie in front of you as in the picture. Now take the 50cm-cable that we cut off the power cord earlier. For this project that works better than listing them here. ###. I also made a detailled tool list with pictures as part of the instructions. All printed parts went through several iterations and are optimized for easy printing. REAR OUTSIDE: Align the printed part "PP1011_Outlet-Filter-Holder_outer-part" with the mark on the board. The two digits in the end stand for the hose diameter. If you are unsure what I mean, compare this picture with the previous one. The materials you need can be divided into seven groups: Hose, pipe, floor-nozzle, motor, cables power-cord, power-switch and circuit-board (though we just want to keep the attached cables & cable shoes). If you can't make it happen, cut the hole in the rubber part a bit bigger, but make sure it still sits tight around the cable. "This is a real issue, as the manufacture of vacuum cleaners accounts for the second largest production of greenhouse gases among electrical products.". As Tenok is not battery powered, but directly connected to the power grid, you can of course not use a small motor from a battery-powered device, I have seen vacuum cleaner motors online where the backside (the side facing up in the picture) looks different. His current website is here. Step 163: Attach Rear Hatch Gasket and PP1009. Now that the big cables are in, we can soon install the funtional electric components. Now we prepare the box for sanding and remove all the remaining screws. does the trick perfectly. Step 179: Connect the Heat-Sensor-Switch 2/2. Make sure to lay the rubber pieces on the front hatch the way I did, so each piece is fixed with a screw on both sides later. Use two screws and washers to attach the heat-sensor-switch to the TOP-board of the motor chamber. 50) helix. Align the printed part "PP12_Bag-coupling" with the marks on the board. To make the motor gasket, we need to cut the tube open. Your browser (Internet Explorer) is out of date. Align the printed part "PP08_Cable-Holder-bottom_Outer-Part" with the marks on the boards. You can use pliers to tighten the nut on the shaft. The wood screws must have a head that meets the shank in a 90-angle (=the transition from head to shank may not be tapered). Connect the remaining wire that comes from the box's central wall to one terminal of the motor (it does not matter to which). You need about 500g of each filament. (If your rubber piece is not wide enough, you can still use it. BOTTOM INSIDE: Align the printed part "PP08_Cable-Holder-bottom_Outer-Part" with the marks on the boards. Slide PP20 into PP14, so that it sticks out on the other side. There are two holes in the TOP-board that you cannot find with the help ob the printed parts. PP1007 has built-in guides to mark the part's center that you need to align with the vertical mark. Now calculate how long your pieces need to be and cut one off. For that we will use the two slender wooden pieces we put aside earlier and remove some areas from them so we can run rope and the power-cord through. Making the wooden enclosure does not require elaborate wood-working skills and all other structural parts can be 3D-printed using a standard FDM-printer like a Prusa. There are multiple positions in which it can be mounted. (Maybe) access to the high vacuum environment for the rest of us, A pick n place machine to finish jigsaw puzzles, Using a vacuum and pressurized air to shoot ping pong balls. For the next steps we do not need the two slender pieces so you can put them aside. Remove about 50mm of the power cords's outer sheathing and from each end of the piece you cut off, so that the inner cables are revealed. That way you avoid the risk of messing up the finished surface. Tip: Often tubes have seam-lines that you can use as a guide so your holes end up on the same height. Make seven more of those rubber pieces so you have eight in total. Take your sewing needle and stitch the corners of the stack with strong thread. ALL BOARDS: Flip the boards around so that all the OUTSIDE-marks and the INLET-mark are in the lower left corners. In the end we will have this circuit in the vacuum cleaner: An on/off-switch, which is connected to the power regulator that controls how fast the motor is running and a heat-sensor-switch to turn everything off when it gets too warm that's it. LEFT-side-surface / RIGHT-side-surface: Add a vertical line per board. So say Goodbye to the piece of belt and say hello to the new handle design. TOP OUTSIDE: Add two vertical marks on the center of the board. In later steps I will refer to the workpieces by the NAMES you write on them now. Attach "PP1011_Outlet-Filter-Holder_outer-part" to the outside of the rear hatch with 6 screws and washers. REAR OUTSIDE / FRONT OUTSIDE / INLET: Draw horizontal and vertical lines through the center of the square boards. Glueing the box together should happen in one go, so the glue can dry out evenly afterwards. The result are marks that form diagonal crosses through the center of the boards. I included adaptors for single spiral (PP02-sXX) and double spiral (PP02-dXX) hoses. To make it even clearer, I added the hose-size-range to each file-name like this: PP02-d38-PETG_2020-02-02_tenok_Hose-adapter_double-spiral_, Making the Box Preparing the Boards 1/2. The result are perpendicular crosses. FRONT INSIDE / REAR INSIDE: Align the printed parts "PP11_Front-Hatch-Gasket-Holder" and "PP1009_Rear-Hatch-Gasket-Holder" with the marks on the boards. Tenok - DIY Vacuum Cleaner Made From Trash! I know that this topic often feels alien and intimidating in tutorials, but don't worry, I made it quite easy to follow. The Hex-bolts should all be threaded across the whole shank: (4x) M8 hex-bolts, 60 mm long; It can be difficult to find fully threaded M8 bolts in that size. Small built-in square holes in the parts serve as guides and need to be aligned with the horizontal and vertical marks. Tenok is called an "adaptive vacuum cleaner" because the design does not rely on manufacturer-specific parts. corners with a pencil as shown in the pictures. Add two vertical marks on the center of the board. In later steps I will refer to the workpieces by the, like they were pages of a book so that you see the other, unmarked side of them. Rub some extra glue on the areas where the foil ends to seal them. Cleaning hose, pipe and nozzle is easy: Just fill them with hot soapwater and shake them. Im a lapsed industrial designer. Step 40: Trace the Screw-holes for PP1005, MOTOR: Align the 4 printed parts "PP1005_Motorholder-Front_outer-part" one by one with the corners of the board and trace the screw holes (two each). PP02-d42 fits a double spiral (d) hose with a 42mm-diameter. Attach the castors by pressing their rods into the holes we drilled in the feet of the box. Attach "PP14_Electronics-Compartment_Upper-Part" with 4 screws and washers. Now pick up the piece we prepared in the previous step, carefully place it in the motor chamber and press it flat to the wall we just put glue on. 4x office chair castors, 2x obsolete bicycle tubes and a synthetic scarf or other polyester- or nylon-fabric (min 50x25cm). If the turbine of your motor has a very inconvenient shape (for example a protruding metal collar exactly at the height where the motor holders end) that prevents you from mounting it properly, try to slide some extra rubber-bits under the rubber-padding of the motor holders. small chisel (8mm straight blade or smaller), drillpress (a proper one works better than that in the picture), drills: mm = 2; 5; 8; 11; 20; 30; 40 (If you have no 40mm-drill, you can do that one with the jigsaw), 3D-printer (preferably assembled, and not still boxed like in the picture), linseed oil (or your preferred wood-finish / wax / paint). I'll provide more info about which length is necessary for your motor in the coming steps, (8x) M5 washers, fender style (larger outside diameter). Put the biggest of the filters we made earlier into outlet-filter-holder we attached in the previous step. For the next step, make sure that the boards are arranged in a way that all the INSIDE-marks and the MOTOR-mark are visible in the lower right corner like in the drawing. Align the 4 printed parts "PP1005_Motorholder-Front_outer-part" one by one with the corners of the board and trace the screw holes (two each). It does not matter to which of the two cables you solder it. REAR INSIDE / FRONT INSIDE / MOTOR: Use a pencil to connect the corners of the square pieces with a line. Now that everything is pressed together nicely you can open the bows, tighten the four threads that hold the rear-motor-holder together and make knots instead. To make it even clearer, I added the hose-size-range to each file-name like this: PP02-d38-PETG_2020-02-02_tenok_Hose-adapter_double-spiral_37-38mm. For that reason I found that it works best to cut it open at its peak. You do not have to rush through the assembly, but it's good practice to put the box together without interruptions while not glueing it together the wrong way round. Prepare the power regulator module by removing the plastic-knob that comes with it and unscrew the small nut from the shaft under the knob. For this step you need the 3D-printed part "PP1007_Motorholder-Rear_wood-mounted-part". In your case it might look a bit different, but that's fine. When you screw the screws in, push the printed part down firmly on the rubber so that it does not move around when you drive the screw through it.
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